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...
The DC should be stable and pretty clean, possibly with a few mV of a high-frequency ripple from the switcher. Yes, this.
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Having replaced hundreds of HDDs and SSDs over the last 40 years...
Reliability issues have come and gone with the worst being after the big factory in Thailand blew up 25 years ago.
I have always focused on who gave the best support when there were issues. WD/SanDisk and Crucial stand head and shoulders above all others. Both have USA warranty centers and, once you have an RMA, you're good. Turnaround times are excellent. Worst has always been Seagate.
Crucial is the retail/consumer brand of Micron, an OEM supplier of RAM and SSDs to everyone including Apple and HP.
You will often find Micron on eBay and other sites saying that they're the same as Crucial—these should be avoided. Although the same RAM and SSDs, the Micron brand is only sold as OEM to VARs and manufacturers with no warranty ever. The discount is large enough so that these customers are expected to eat the occasional defect. Micron makes this quite clear on their web site.
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I hope that I'm not tempting fate, but I have only ever used Crucial in my systems, and never encountered any issues.
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By semiconductor standards, SSDs are a bit weird.
They're made with "flash memory" chips, which, unusually for semiconductors, do actually wear out. They're usually rated in 100k erase-write cycles. On a busy SSD drive, one can do quite a lot of writes over time.
What the makers do with both the chips and the SSD devices is incorporate a percentage of spare capacity that they can switch in to replace blocks of cells that have failed or are getting tired. In practice they have to do that simply because even new devices can have faults and they need a way to work around those of they'd be binning an awful lot of product. They also try to spread the work evenly over the devices so that they don't wear out one area.
The chips also tend to be more robust if the cells are low-density and less robust if they're high density, e.g., cells per square inch.
Pick your trade-off, but remember that low density and high spare capacity cost both chip area and money.
There are clues from the various manufacturers about how much trade-off they're doing. High cost server-grade parts should(!) be significantly better that cheap high capacity. The usual story in fact, but perhaps more so with SSDs.
FWIW I think I haven't yet had an SSD fail, though I was probably also later than many to the party because I already understood what I write above.
I've long used WD "spinning rust" drives and found them very reliable. I would expect their SSDs also to be good, but I have, I think, only the one WD SSD and it's almost new.
Jazz relative beginner, starting at a much older age than was helpful.
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I hope that I'm not tempting fate, but I have only ever used Crucial in my systems, and never encountered any issues. Micron is very good about their Crucial brand. I bought a hundred of the 2TB MX300 for a school district a number of years ago. After they were discontinued, I had two showing signs of imminent failure within the 3 yr warranty period (I routinely tested every drive during the summer break) and they were replaced right away. I then contacted them about my concern that it would be another year before I tested the rest. They sent me 98 of the 5 yr MX500 drives and recommended that I replace them all—which I did—and provided a shipping label for return to their Nampa, Idaho service center. Although the remainder of that 3 yr warranty was all that would have applied, not one of those MX500s ever failed to my knowledge. I still have a pair of MX500s in my laptops. That was a nice part-time gig for me but I gave it up as part of my retirement 3 years ago. All of those machines have since been sold but I do hear from many of the teachers who bought them. Still haven't seen an MX500 fail. I now recommend the Crucial P3+ m.2 NVMe blade over the WD/SanDisk but only because they are less expensive here. A current generation 4TB NVMe4 x4 Blue is $279 while the P3 Plus is $236. There is no difference in performance or warranty.
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I am pretty sure that the freezer trick is for hard disk drives only. Far as I know that's correct. Flash memory actually works in part due to heat, so it'll get warm quickly anyway. If the scope can be set to AC coupled, that'll avoid any DC offset. If not, put a capacitor of a few tens of nanofarads in series between the probe and voltage rail. I hope that I'm not tempting fate, but I have only ever used Crucial in my systems, and never encountered any issues. Both Crucial and Micron stuff are good quality. I don't think I've had any of it fail on me. The chips also tend to be more robust if the cells are low-density and less robust if they're high density, e.g., cells per square inch. Yup. SLC vs MLC vs TLC vs QLC. The lower the amount of layers per cell the faster and more reliable the drive will be. Most drives are TLC or QLC these days though, so pick a TLC over QLC whenever possible. They're made with "flash memory" chips, which, unusually for semiconductors, do actually wear out. They're usually rated in 100k erase-write cycles. On a busy SSD drive, one can do quite a lot of writes over time.
What the makers do with both the chips and the SSD devices is incorporate a percentage of spare capacity that they can switch in to replace blocks of cells that have failed or are getting tired. In practice they have to do that simply because even new devices can have faults and they need a way to work around those of they'd be binning an awful lot of product. They also try to spread the work evenly over the devices so that they don't wear out one area. For this reason I suggest getting the biggest SSD you can afford. More space means more space to spread writes over. This is especially important in computers where it's soldered to the motherboard and can't be replaced or upgraded (looking at you Apple). Also take a look at the TBW spec when looking for an SSD - this is "Terabyte writes" and is an indication of how many terabytes can be written to the disk before potential failure. There can be huge differences - in the 5 cheapest 2tb SSD's at my local store, they range between 640TBW and 1300TBW, meaning the 1300 will probably last more than twice as long. I've long used WD "spinning rust" drives and found them very reliable. I would expect their SSDs also to be good, but I have, I think, only the one WD SSD and it's almost new. I've had a lot of WD stuff over the years with very few issues. All the drives in my NAS are WD Red, and I've got a bunch of Blue and Green drives as backups. not one of those MX500s ever failed to my knowledge I have an MX100 in my 2012 Macbook that I think I've had since 2014 (in multiple computers over the years). Zero problems. I now recommend the Crucial P3+ m.2 NVMe blade over the WD/SanDisk but only because they are less expensive here. A current generation 4TB NVMe4 x4 Blue is $279 while the P3 Plus is $236. There is no difference in performance or warranty. Except that the Blue is spec'd for between 600-900TBW while the Crucial is 440TBW.
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[For this reason I suggest getting the biggest SSD you can afford. More space means more space to spread writes over. This is especially important in computers where it's soldered to the motherboard and can't be replaced or upgraded (looking at you Apple). My only issue with that statement is that I'm not sure that twice as much space on a high density drive is necessarily better than once the space on a lower density drive. It's not something I've looked at ... does anyone have any useful data on it? There may just be too many imponderables 
Jazz relative beginner, starting at a much older age than was helpful.
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[For this reason I suggest getting the biggest SSD you can afford. More space means more space to spread writes over. This is especially important in computers where it's soldered to the motherboard and can't be replaced or upgraded (looking at you Apple). My only issue with that statement is that I'm not sure that twice as much space on a high density drive is necessarily better than once the space on a lower density drive. It's not something I've looked at ... does anyone have any useful data on it? There may just be too many imponderables That's why I mentioned TBW. It's possible to have a 2tb and 1tb drive with the same TBW, which is pretty much what you're talking about. In general though, drives with more space have more TBW than comparable drives with less space - for example a WD Blue 1tb has half the TBW of a WD Blue 2tb.
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So this is marked resolved?
What was the solution?
Last I saw he was still testing
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So this is marked resolved?
What was the solution?
Last I saw he was still testing Not sure. His last message he was thinking it might've just been bad luck. In the period I used Western Digital, I had their Black series. I’ve had some Toshiba SSDs fail, the portable type. I use only Samsung drives now.
Like you I have a ton of old hard drives, and one of those adapters that you can plug in any drive and connect it by USB. My caution about hard drives is that the magnetism can degrade, so I would not want my only backup to be on a spinning drive. One thing I do on a periodic basis with any spare SSD's I use for backups, are to plug them into the docking station at lest once every couple of months. SSD's, from what I understand, keeps the 0's and 1's in place because of a small charge. Without a periodic refresh charge, there is a chance you could loose some important data that makes the file readable. I missed this before. "Periodic refresh" is not necessary with SSD's - NAND memory has data retention on the scale of decades. Similarly with hard drive magnetism, I have recently used hard drives that are a quarter of a century old that haven't been used for 20+ years, and all the data was intact. In general it is good advice to periodically replace your backup medium though.
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If the scope can be set to AC coupled, that'll avoid any DC offset. If not, put a capacitor of a few tens of nanofarads in series between the probe and voltage rail. I never used an oscilloscope yet that didn't have both DC and AC coupling. Is such a model produced?
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If the scope can be set to AC coupled, that'll avoid any DC offset. If not, put a capacitor of a few tens of nanofarads in series between the probe and voltage rail. I never used an oscilloscope yet that didn't have both DC and AC coupling. Is such a model produced? I've seen it on some of the small handheld ones.
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not one of those MX500s ever failed to my knowledge
…
I have an MX100 in my 2012 Macbook that I think I've had since 2014 (in multiple computers over the years). Zero problems. That's nice for a ten year old drive. Both of my 2012 MacBook Pros have 2TB MX500, probably 6 years old. One still has its original battery and WiFi/BT card which is a miracle IMO. I now recommend the Crucial P3+ m.2 NVMe blade over the WD/SanDisk but only because they are less expensive here. A current generation 4TB NVMe4 x4 Blue is $279 while the P3 Plus is $236. There is no difference in performance or warranty. Except that the Blue is spec'd for between 600-900TBW while the Crucial is 440TBW. No. You're quoting the 2TB. I specifically mentioned the P3+ 4TB, rated 800TBW. From the Product Data Sheet: CRUCIAL P3 PLUSEndurance - Total Bytes Written (TBW) 500GB SSD = 110TB (TBW) 1TB SSD = 220TB (TBW) 2TB SSD = 440TB (TBW) 4TB SSD = 800TB (TWB)
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That's why I mentioned TBW. It's possible to have a 2tb and 1tb drive with the same TBW, which is pretty much what you're talking about. In general though, drives with more space have more TBW than comparable drives with less space - for example a WD Blue 1tb has half the TBW of a WD Blue 2tb. Oh, right, yes. That makes sense. I didn't register the significance. Thanks.
Jazz relative beginner, starting at a much older age than was helpful.
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All.
just throwing this out there cos i'm no ssd internals tech.
riddle me this.
could it be that the reason ive never ever had even one drive..old or new tech go on the blink is i always go for small drives eg 256 or 512 ?
in my dim memory i seem to remember talking to a drive tech at a comdex show who said best to use small drives.
even old drives ive got here...no probs when i load them up.
weird huh ?
Mike...same here...nary an issue with crucial ssd.
happiness.
om
Last edited by justanoldmuso; 08/16/24 03:43 AM.
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ive never ever had even one drive..old or new tech go on the blink is i always go for small drives eg 256 or 512 ? It's often said people can be divided into two groups: those who haven't had a drive fail and those who haven't had one fail yet! I think smaller drives might be more forgiving of wear and tear, but I've certainly had drives of all sizes fail, right back from some 10MB drives in the early 80s.
Jazz relative beginner, starting at a much older age than was helpful.
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My experience would not support that hypothesis, not that it's wrong.
I recall having several drives of all capacities fail. However, my house has been struck by lightning several times and I think that's the underlying cause. Without that, some of those drives might still work fine but there is no way to know.
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just throwing this out there cos i'm no ssd internals tech. That is not our problem. I'm not being sarcastic but you are way, way behind the times while wasting a lot of it.
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To make a long story short, I have narrowed it down to 1 of 2 things. The docking station I am using is an Inateck FD2002 USB Docking Station. This morning I plugged in 2 mechanical drives to backup some data and the thing disconnected itself and then reconnected itself 2 times in a 5 min period when copying data over. I had noticed something fishy going on for the past couple of months even with nothing plugged into the DS. The USB disconnect and connect sound would come in for no reason at all. All the power settings in Win10 are set to never sleep including the USB ports. The laptop is an old HP Envy 7 that I purchased back in 2013. I am wondering if the power output of the USB port is being taxed too high with mechanical drives plugged in along with an SSD. I have tried it in multiple ports, both 2.0 and 3.0 with the same results. Since I plan on purchasing a new Desktop system in a couple of months, rather risk loosing data due to the DS acting strange, I am done sending backup data for now and will retest when I get the new Desktop up and running. I am really beginning to think it is a power draw problem. I will do 1 more test with a blank mechanical drive. I am going to send some data over the USB connection and watch the Device Manger to see if I can catch any USB drives disconnecting or not. Not sure what else to look for. https://www.overclockers.com/inateck-fd2002-dual-bay-docking-station-review/
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Does this 'dock' have its own power supply or does it run off the computer?
Either way, it's probably a cheaper fix than a new computer.
Not that I want to talk you out of a newer computer ..
Last edited by rharv; 08/17/24 10:23 AM.
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